Oh no, you!

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  • 26 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: November 3rd, 2024

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  • Start by approximates. Move the print head/bed so they’re only a few millimeters apart, close enough that you’ll be able to see whether the gap stays the same or not. Then find out where the bed is highest. Move to a different corner and tighten the screw there until it’s roughly the same height. Once all corners look the same, you might want to check the center just to make sure it’s not drooping. Afterwards, repeat the process with more accuracy.


  • Based on the picture and your explanation it sounds like this might be the issue, or at least one of them.

    So, if I understand that design correctly, you tighten the screws going into those washer looking things, and the sprint pushes the bed up, causing it to stay in place?

    If so, here’s what I’d do:

    1. Use a glass pane or something. They’re cheap, heat beds and print sheets are not.
    2. Bring the head all the way down.
    3. Unplug power so you can move the print head by hand.
    4. Find the highest point on the bed.
    5. Adjust the opposite corners further up (presumably by tightening the screws) until the print head is at the same distance no matter where you move it.

  • The XY axises (axii?) need to be parallell to the heatbed, meaning that no matter where the print head moves, it’s always the same distance away from the bed.

    A heatbed doesn’t have to be perfectly level relative to the earth, but it does have to be level relative to the print head.

    Move your print head to all four corners and measure accurately how high above the heat bed it is.

    EDIT: If that’s a bedslinger design I’m seeing, my point remains valid, you just have to move the bed as well.


  • I don’t think I have the necessary experience required to properly diagnose your issue(s), but I troubleshoot hardware and void warranties for a living, so hopefully my general advice can be useful:

    The obvious part is to start troubleshooting from one end. And when “nothing” works, the correct end to start from is the end with least variables, so we’re talking very basics here. And from that you can tackle each problem as you properly confirm them.

    So the first thing I’d do is to check that your temp settings are good for your filament. And can you verify that the temp shown is in fact the actual temp? Could be a busted thermistor. All checks out? Well, your hot end is probably find.

    Next up, are you able to confirm that the extruded amount of plastic matches what should be extruded? I had a recent issue of over, trudging myself, and if this isn’t dialed in correctly it can get really messy, especially with PETG.

    Are the steppers moving the correct amount of degrees? A stepper should move only a fixed amount of degrees per step. If it is unable to do so for a full rotation, it’s a bad stepper.

    Any chance the nozzle is damaged? If it’s out of shape in the literal sense, it will be unable to lay down plastic in a precise manner.

    And then there’s the part I always hated: Heatbed leveling. First, your heatbed needs to be level relative to your X and Y. The tiniest inaccuracy will make the whole project a nightmare. Precision calipers are your friend here.

    Now, heatbed temperature, check the same stuff as you did with the nozzle. Correct temp set for the material? And is this the actual temp?

    Now it’s time to ensure the Z offset of your nozzle is correct. Too high and it’ll just string instead of what it’s supposed to do. Too low and you end up with what I call nozzlesnot which can cause symptoms similar to a damaged nozzle, which might also have stringing as an end result.

    If you made it this far, your printer is probably mechanically fine, so it might be environmental factors such as ambient temperatures. Also, I remember back in the day that some had issues with various filament manufacturers being really sloppy when making filament, resulting in varying diameter.

    I don’t do PLA myself, so I won’t comment on print surface or your temperature choices. I think glass was popular back in the day, at least.

    Anyway, I hope this helps. Either way, I hope you get to the bottom of it.

    Oh, last addition: Sunk cost fallacy is a bitch. You’ve kept at it for six years, so I guess you really want to make printing work for you, but you might want to consider whether you should go for a different printer if you’re not getting anywhere. Prusa Core One was really fun to build if you want my personal recommendation, and it took away a lot of the calibration drudgery that made me temporarily step away from the hobby in 2012.